Challenging the Concept of Arcade Sticks

[Nihilm]

That sounds quite amazing

[Christemo]

God **#**^@!!$!

Is there an image host you'd like to recommend? Since I went through 4 ish and apparently they all don't work. >:[

Always use imgur

[Mattias]

So are you gonna just put a little saddle on the bottom so it can hold itself in your lap?

[Epiren]

Always use imgur

Which is banned in China apparently - 'tis why I wrote about the VPN.

So are you gonna just put a little saddle on the bottom so it can hold itself in your lap?

No. Though that does sound interesting. Having trouble visualizing it though.

[Epiren]

Hi hi. It's been a while hasn't it. Just got all my (electronic) components and hardware, so I'm off to a machine shop to get this done.
Final Design: Hori RAP.4 Premium VLX Chinese Knockoff (I'll come up with a cooler name later :/ )

Spoiler:

General purpose: Rather than trying to make it modular like my last stick (was attempting to, at the very least), I instead just allowed it to be played traditionally by altering the shoulder (far right) buttons. I liked how the Hori RAP.4 P.VLX opens up with its hinge, so I tried to replicate that here. (Actually, now that I think of it, it's closer to the MadCatz TE2... Welp.) I've also allowed the joystick to be "adjustable". From preliminary testing, it seems easier to handle the stick when's it rotated about 30 degree counterclockwise. In case this doesn't work, it's possible to re-screw the joystick in such that it's parallel to the edge.

I tried to typically use 10mm walls, though in some cases such as the top and bottom panels they are 5mm instead. The supports are typically 10mm thick, though some are even bigger at 20mm and 25mm. It's approximately 460mm x 175mm x 70mm in size.

[Mattias]

Whats that weird little bit on the side with buttons near the joystick? Some sort of thumb rest hatch?

[Epiren]

Whats that weird little bit on the side with buttons near the joystick? Some sort of thumb rest hatch?

On the Hori RAP4 P.VLX, it has a small compartment that stores the USB and locks the top panel in place. In my Chinese knockoff, it's pretty much the same thing - though not a compartment per se and it doesn't screw the top panel in place since I'm using magnets for that purpose.

[Epiren]

Update: Current quote using a revised model (replace the hinge with just a thin rectangular hole) is about 5500 RMB or a little less than 1000 USD - without material. Yeah... no. For the record, I can go into Hong Kong and get a Hori RAP 4 Kai for 850 HKD or 110 USD, and a Hori RAP 4 Premium VLX for about 1100 HKD.

I'll probably go back to the basics to reduce costs dramatically.

[Epiren]

So after talking to confidants, I decided to return to the basics to see if that can reduce costs. I got rid of the chamfer and the hinge, so it's just a rigid plastic box. Like before, there is a metal support that bolts onto the top panel, which (hopefully) I can use to lock it down with magnets. I've also replaced the bottom panel with a steel plate because why not.

In my last design, I also made a weird support to try and attach the bottom plate to the sides. In this one, I made an entirely new shape that I've attached below - along with my current design. I wish I could attach my .stp file, but I need to figure out how :/

Jaded by the earlier quote, I'm aiming for under 4000 RMB. There's not much I can cut out - except for the metal, countersinks, unique supports, and cable hole.

I'm having issues with my VPN, so hopefully this new image host works out:

[img]http://postimg.org/image/okag2dw0t/[/img]

Edit: scratch that, I'll just attach these for now until I can get imgur to work again.

Spoiler:

[Epiren]

Did some general cleaning up on this thread, put some images in spoilers, etc.

Anyways, for the update:

The parts have arrived from the machine shop. I have assembled the C.FAP 8 - Chinese Fake Arcade Pro 8. I will post pics either tomorrow or the next day, along with the usual materials and costs. I can't wait to build my next stick.

On a side note - I've done mess up. I accidentally designed the joystick holes farther apart than they actually are, which has led me to (with the help of some colleagues) make a new joystick plate.

[Epiren]

Unfortunately, I'm having issues with Imgur so I'll post the images as attachments and then try again later.

Orange Stick: Built in China (OS:BC)

Size: 480mm x 200mm x 60mm
Weight: F*cking heavy

Total Cost: 3299 RMB ($512.50)

Material Cost: 86 RMB ($13.35)
Transport Cost: 13 RMB ($2.00)
Machining Cost: 3200 RMB ($497.10)

Materials:

Phenolic Plate - type of paper/epoxy resin plastic... thing. Very good for fixtures.
4130 Steel Alloy - Decently strong. Magnetic as well - very important.
Stainless steel supports: (8) L-brackets [corner], (6) triangular corner supports
M4 and M6 stainless steel screws & nuts - a lot.
(1) Stainless steel hinge
(8) 30mm Sanwa screw-in buttons
(3) 24mm Seimitsu screw-in buttons
(1) Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT joystick

Notes:
Material is cheap here in China. Machining however cost a pretty penny. Honestly, if I were allowed to use the power tools here, I could've done it myself. Unfortunately, I had to outsource it to another machine shop that a close secretary (sort of) recommended for me. Because of the damn price, I had to remove a lot of features.

Basic design with countersunk screw holes for the most part. The "bottom" panel with the hinge is lower than the "top" due to the hinge - I wanted at least 50 degrees of freedom. The bottom hinge is like 43mm high, while the top is 54mm. The top panel is shaped like it is, so that a hand is able to get underneath the "face" panel and lift it.

The joystick has two positions: natural (parallel to the box's length) and personal (angled 30 degrees to the natural). The latter option is something I am testing out, since my preferred position is different from everyone else's - if it doesn't work out, then I can always switch it back to the natural position.

The buttons have a unique layout due to another condition - I want it able to be played in the more traditional fashion. Thus, without the finagling of The Platinum (or Le Stick Vertical), another person can easily play on it. Also, the white button on top is Select - since I mostly play BB, Select is the "Menu" button really.

The stick is also really heavy. Like, really, really heavy. It feels much heavier than the V.RAP 4 Kai.

Also, the lack of chamfers/rounds really hurts the wrist. I'm getting help from a colleague to fix that. That, and when I asked a colleague for some help with countersinks... he broke my "back" panel.

Spoiler:

[Epiren]

Minor update.

Been busy with classes, but I haven't neglected my stick making skills at all. Currently, I'm just replacing my CRAP's pcb to a PS4/PS3 one instead. After that though, I will be working on my next project.

Will post images and designs later.

[Epiren]

Somewhat important for my next stick, here's a test code (Arduino) that I will be trying out later. If it works, then I think I can proceed with my construction. If not, then back to the whiteboard.

Spoiler:

const int button = 2;

int sValue = 0;
int fValue = 0;

void setup() {
// put your setup code here, to run once:

Serial.begin(9600);
pinMode( button, INPUT );

}

void loop() {
// put your main code here, to run repeatedly:
while( digitalRead( button ) == LOW ) {
testing( );
}

Serial.println( "END" );
}

void testing( ){

delay(10);

fValue = sValue;
sValue = random( 0, 11 );

if( sValue > 5 ) {
Serial.println( "Left" );
}

else if( sValue < 5 ) {
Serial.println( "Right" );
}
else if( sValue = fValue ) {
Serial.println( "Same" );
}
else {
Serial.println( "Other" );
}

delay(1000);
}

[Epiren]

This code does work. Will be testing to see if I can get the MPU6050 to work with it. However, an error has cropped up - damn thing will only work correctly when the button is pressed down. Not what I expected at all.

Updated the code to better reflect the 8 directions + neutral. Also added visual representation:

Updated Code

// One Button On/Off Toggle

const int bPin = 2; // the pushbutton pin number
const int rPin = 8; // the Up
const int yPin = 9; // the Down
const int gPin = 10; // the Left
const int wPin = 11; // the Right

// Changing Variables
int dState = LOW; // the current state of the output pin
int bState = LOW; // the current reading from the input pin
int lbState = HIGH; // the previous reading from the input pin
int reading;

int run;
int xValue;
int yValue;

long lDebounce = 0; // the last time the output pin was toggled
long dDelay = 50; // the debounce time; increase if output flickers

void setup( ) {

pinMode( bPin, INPUT_PULLUP );
pinMode( rPin, OUTPUT );
pinMode( yPin, OUTPUT );
pinMode( gPin, OUTPUT );
pinMode( wPin, OUTPUT );

run = 0;

}

void loop( ) {

if( digitalRead (bPin) == LOW ) {
if( run == 0 ) {
run = 255;
}
else {
run = 0;
}
}

if ( run > 0 ) {
Vader( );
}
}

void Vader( ) {

xValue = random( 0, 11 );
yValue = random( 0, 11 );

if ( xValue > 5 && yValue < 5 ) {
Serial.println( "Left+Up" );
digitalWrite( rPin, HIGH );
digitalWrite( yPin, LOW );
digitalWrite( gPin, HIGH );
digitalWrite( wPin, LOW );
}
else if ( xValue < 5 && yValue < 5 ) {
Serial.println( "Right+Up");
digitalWrite( rPin, HIGH );
digitalWrite( yPin, LOW );
digitalWrite( gPin, LOW );
digitalWrite( wPin, HIGH );
}
else if ( xValue > 5 && yValue > 5) {
Serial.println( "Left+Down" );
digitalWrite( rPin, LOW );
digitalWrite( yPin, HIGH );
digitalWrite( gPin, HIGH );
digitalWrite( wPin, LOW );
}
else if ( xValue < 5 && yValue > 5) {
Serial.println( "Right+Down" );
digitalWrite( rPin, LOW );
digitalWrite( yPin, HIGH );
digitalWrite( gPin, LOW );
digitalWrite( wPin, HIGH );
}
else if ( xValue > 5 && yValue == 5) {
Serial.println( "Left" );
digitalWrite( rPin, LOW );
digitalWrite( yPin, LOW );
digitalWrite( gPin, HIGH );
digitalWrite( wPin, LOW );
}
else if ( xValue < 5 && yValue == 5) {
Serial.println( "Right" );
digitalWrite( rPin, LOW );
digitalWrite( yPin, LOW );
digitalWrite( gPin, LOW );
digitalWrite( wPin, HIGH );
}
else if ( xValue = 5 && yValue > 5) {
Serial.println( "Down" );
digitalWrite( rPin, LOW );
digitalWrite( yPin, HIGH );
digitalWrite( gPin, LOW );
digitalWrite( wPin, LOW );
}
else if ( xValue = 5 && yValue < 5) {
Serial.println( "Up" );
digitalWrite( rPin, HIGH );
digitalWrite( yPin, LOW );
digitalWrite( gPin, LOW );
digitalWrite( wPin, LOW );
}
else {
Serial.println( "neutral" );
digitalWrite( rPin, LOW );
digitalWrite( yPin, LOW );
digitalWrite( gPin, LOW );
digitalWrite( wPin, LOW );
}

delay(500);
}

Setup

[Epiren]

I got bored.



Will be presenting these either at Winter Brawl or GU Monthly.

[Mattias]

Are those power gloves?

[Epiren]

I won't say they're "power gloves", but they are gloves.

[Mattias]

I'm assuming the holes inside are where the eventual buttons will go? If so, How are you going to hold it? Or are those just finger holes?

[Epiren]

Guts!

Though seriously, see the two (four total) slits on each arm guard? I intend on slipping in some velcro straps to hold my arm in place - 2 each at the moment, though I can add more if I determine it not to be enough. The holes are just button holes. Will have better (real) photos before this week's end.

[Mattias]

I see. Interesting. That's going to be a bit tricky to get right, since your hands will have to be flush against the (Wood?, Plastic?) which might make you stretch a bit to get the buttons properly. Also you'd have a terrible time opening doors. And hooking the pair up together as a single input source, without it looking stupid (Maybe thread the wires through a faux chain and wrap them around the gloves to get a bit of a Birdie in Street Fighter feel. Just unwrap the chain, plug it into the set up and you're good to go). On the plus side you can use any gaunleted fighter as a base for the cover, like Yang from RWBY, Bullet from Blazblue, The aforementioned Birdie, etc.